Signagi (or Sighnaghi), tucked away in the far east of Georgia’s Kakheti region, feels like a town suspended in time.
Whilst the cobbled streets, remarkably well-preserved 18th century city wall and sweeping views of the Caucasus Mountains will invite you to imagine the past, the colourful buildings with terracotta rooftops, atmospheric cafés perched above stunning vistas and the bustling central square, will pull you firmly into the present.
As unexpected as it may seem, this destination is also a popular wedding location due to its ability to have round-the-clock wedding ceremonies via its all-hours wedding house, resulting in the town also being dubbed, ‘The City of Love’. Pity that we didn’t actually see a wedding during our time there.
So, what did Signagi town have to offer us?
Signagi town unfolds along a single main street, with varying offshoots. It didn’t take long for Connor and I to explore the town fully, including backroads, which perhaps is why many tourists will opt to visit this scenic town in a single day trip.
Despite our fast exploration, we stand solidly behind the decision to stay the night. The extra time gave us the chance to see the town at nightfall and also enjoy a wine (or three) with the comfort of a bed to fall back on.
So what did we find most enjoyable here?
Local wines
Kakheti is Georgia’s principal wine-producing region, with over 500 varieties of grapes and 8,000 years of winemaking history. Therefore, it makes sense to start off with the prized element.
As we walked through the town, it was evident that every business owner either brewed wine or knows someone close who does. From homemade brews in plastic bottles, to wine ice-cream (not to mention bottled wine), vino is in the hearts of everyone here in Signagi.
With each vendor excitedly offering their version of Georgia’s #1 best wine, we soon found ourselves a few glasses deep by the end of the day, of course egged on by the locals.
The city wall
Signagi town very much feels like a town blended between old and new. A snazzy wine bar planted next to the centuries-old city gate. Instagram-worthy restaurants situated next to the religious basilica of St. George.
Despite the paradox, the atmosphere of the town is tranquil and the locals friendly. Perhaps it was the mountain air, but here our stress levels depleted following a dodgily-seated transport from Tbilisi.
Visitors have the chance to pass through the city gate, peruse vendors selling various traditional trinkets and even try some freshly squeezed pomegranate juice (which is typical throughout Georgia). It is this pathway we took to walk a designated part of the approx. 4.5km long 18th century city wall.
What made our walk along the city wall even more fun, was that we could climb to the top of the many watchtowers, stepping into the shoes of the old guards who used the wall to defend against foreign invaders.
Something I personally found amusing was that a restaurant had taken full advantage of its proximity to the wall, by adding a step ladder from the wall itself into the restaurant – that’s one way to appeal to guests!
The eateries
The town itself is full of restaurants and cute cafés that have their seating areas suspended out from the mountain, making for a spectacular viewpoint. Visitors will be spoilt for choice. Being on a budget, Connor and I scoped out the most affordable places that had the best quality. I am happy to confirm that we chose well.
So what did we try for our sweet treat? Well, Connor dabbled with wine ice-cream at the previously mentioned “Café Beauty View”. Connor’s serving was vanilla ice-cream with a helping of dessert wine on top.
Other things to do
We didn’t do much more than what is mentioned above as we needed to re-charge after a hectic couple of days in Tbilisi, walking 40,000+ steps daily. However, there are other things to do close to Signagi, such as visit St. Nino Monastery in nearby Bodbe (approx. 2km away) and ride the Signagi Zipline, which is approx. 400m long, for an exhilarating view of the Alazani Valley.
Getting to Signagi from Tbilisi
Arriving from Tbilisi to Signagi was pretty easy. We took a marshrutka for 10 GEL each from Samgori Bus Station. The journey takes about 1.5 hours, though the length depends on traffic and/or how fast your driver drives. For us, we had Michael Schumacher driving, so a quick ride more than made up for the not so comfortable makeshift seating we scored in the marshrutka. Returning to Tbilisi you can either get a scheduled marshrutka or pay 30 GEL each for a minibus ‘taxi’.
Pro tip: aim to get to the marshrutka well before the scheduled departure time. This is because it will leave as soon as capacity is met, meaning they can leave well before the designated departure time.
Our verdict
Personally, our time in Signagi was a major highlight; from the great wines, to the views, to the peaceful atmosphere. I would certainly recommend staying the night too. If possible, try to visit Geo’s Wine Cellar. We attempted to, but every time we knocked, Geo wasn’t there (what an elusive man he is). We heard that he does a great wine tasting though.
