Home to countless hiking trails and iconic views, visiting Stepantsminda is considered a ‘must-do’ for anyone visiting Georgia. So, naturally we had to go and experience Stepantsminda and hiking in Kazbegi for ourselves. I must say, the rumours are indeed true.
The scenery is breathtaking. Surrounded by the immense Caucasus Mountain range, you’ll quickly be reminded of nature’s unrelenting power and beauty. But be warned: at an elevation of 1,767 metres, this peaceful town is at the mercy of the elements.
Continuing our unlucky streak with weather, the moment we arrived, clear, sunny skies gave way to dark clouds and rain. Though this didn’t deter us. We soon strapped on our walking boots (the only waterproof part of our wardrobe) and set off to see what all the hype was about.
Oddly enough, despite the elevation and climate variability, Stepantsminda isn’t geared up to sell wet-weather gear. So, make sure you pack lots of warm and waterproof items if planning a visit.
Exploring Stepantsminda town
The town itself is quite small with little to do besides drink and eat in the cafes or restaurants. What we did notice, was the distinct lack of bakeries and thus our access to local sweet treats cut off. Though in the grand scheme of things, this wasn’t too important.
We did have a standoff with a lady cashier at a shawarma counter, who tried to severely over-charge us for two wraps. The stand-off was very much a test of will and determination, with neither party breaking for a good 15 minutes. However, as her customer queue grew, pressure mounted and the cracks began to show. The lady threw our due 15 GEL change at us in disgust, and we walked away triumphant from the battlefield.
Despite that bad experience and learning to always stand our ground against bullies, we did find two other decent places to eat and drink:
- სახლი House. A charming family-run restaurant with a cosy atmosphere and home-made dishes. This is located as you come down the hill from the local Gergeti Trinity Church hike. Well placed if you ask me.
- Isushi Kazbegi. What looks like a shack from the outside, turned out to be quite a tasty Asian restaurant. This is located a few roads back from the main high-street.
Hiking to Gergeti Trinity Church
The hiking trails are certainly not for the faint-hearted.
We took two separate routes to Gergeti Trinity Church. Both trails either had us climbing endless make-shift steps or scaling sleet lined paths. But don’t worry, a trusty local stray dog may accompany you part of the journey to keep you safe.
The sweat and tears from these intermediate hikes are worth it though. The location of Gergeti Trinity Church is absolutely stunning. Set at an elevation of 2,170 metres, the church has a backdrop of the Caucasus Mountain range, including Mount Kazbek. Mount Kazbek itself is one of the highest mountains in Eastern Georgia, standing at 5,054 metres tall.
So why did we do this hike twice? Well, the first time we arrived the rain clouds were so thick we couldn’t see a view at all. Therefore, we repeated the hike in the morning of the following day and thankfully had somewhat clearer skies.
Other hiking trails
We attempted a hike to the Gergeti Glacier, however, we didn’t leave early enough from our cosy accommodation. The rain had also started pouring 4 hours into our hike and yet again visibility was limited. So, regretfully, after scaling yet another massive hill and getting considerably soaked, we had to turn back.
The Gergeti Glacier hike takes about 8-12 hours, depending on speed, fitness and weather conditions. The hike will bring you to an altitude of 3,200 metres, so be prepared for that.
We were also recommended to visit Trusso Valley and Gveleti Waterfall, though we ran out of time.
Stepantsminda or Kazbegi?
A question you might have in your head is, “Stepantsminda or Kazbegi, what is the actual name of this place?”. It’s easy to see why there is confusion.
Both names are technically correct. Stepantsminda was the original name. In 1925 the town was then renamed to ‘Kazbegi’ under Soviet rule. Then, in 2006 the original name of ‘Stepantsminda’ was reverted back to. What is life without an ounce of confusion?
That said, for simplicity’s sake, ‘Kazbegi’ remains the more commonly used name among both Georgians and tourists.
Getting to Stepantsminda (Kazbegi)
Simply go to the Didube bus terminal. Marshrutkas leave regularly on a daily basis, running at: 8am, 9am, 10am, 11am, 12pm, 1pm, 2.30pm, 3.30pm, 5pm, 6pm, 7pm.
The ride should cost 15 GEL, but if you have luggage, it will be 20 GEL (as of Oct 2025). The journey will take about 3 hours (give or take).
TIPS:
- Marshrutkas may display ‘Kazbegi’ instead of ‘Stepantsminda.
- Didube bus terminal is chaotic. Allow extra time to find your departure point. We had to ask a fair amount of people where the Kazbegi marshrutka was leaving from. We eventually found it in its own section to the right of a bakery (near to the bus stop side).
