Aktau, a port city located in the western region of Kazakhstan, northeast of the Caspian Sea.
A transit city, yes, with many visitors using it as a bypass when crossing the Caspian. Or, like us, using Aktau as a cheap alternative to reach Uzbekistan overland (at the time of writing, the land border is closed, so only travel by train or flying via Almaty to Tashkent is possible).
But don’t be fooled by what you read online about this surprising port city, as it has more to offer than just being a passing place on your travels.
So here are 5 things to do in Aktau.
The rock walk along the Caspian
A newly built path (in 2019) along the Caspian Sea, the rock walk should be the first thing you do in Aktau. A walk just shy of a mile, you’ll pass different rock formations, sculptures, and resting points.
The rocks themselves show original carvings from the past, pointing towards the region’s ancient history.
Underneath the wooden path, you can shield yourself from the sun between the rocks and enjoy coastal life on a makeshift beach.
Run along the coast
Aktau is part of a dense desert, a wide area that has more camels than people outside of the port. This has its advantages.
Many popular seaside towns are spoiled by the crowds and noise that come with the territory. Aktau – not so much. Late one morning, I went for a run along the coast and only came across 10 people in a 5 km stretch.
Going towards the Amphitheatre, you pass many different monuments and statues, and if you want to further your workout, you pass numerous outdoor gyms.
Granted, we went in the shoulder season; I’m told that Aktau is quite busy during summer. Maybe you’ll see 15 people instead.
Drink at Aktau’s main expat bar
Baccara, a bar that we stumbled upon because of my desire to watch Leeds play Tottenham in the Premier League. After popping our heads in the day before, we saw a group of men watching highlights of the Ryder Cup on Sky Sports Golf. I took a mental note and returned the next day.
The staff only spoke Russian, but getting the football on was easy when they handed me the remote. At the start of the game, it was only me, Georgina, and an armchair Kazakhstan Spurs fan. We sat at the bar, a familiar routine Georgina is getting used to, and I ordered several beers, costing 900 Tenge each.
After the game, the men we saw the day before came in and welcomed us. They were all from the UK, and some have been working in Aktau for over 25 years. They have crowned Baccara home to the expats, and the best place to watch the sport.
I asked one of the men what living in Aktau was like. He replied, “It’s alright, beer is cheap.”
Chill out by the beach
Aktau does have a recognised beach. You’ll find it at the end of the rock walk. The beach is small and quite grey in appearance, located next to the main shipping port.
However, the beach has cafes, a few shops, and a volleyball net set up. We lasted around an hour on the beach before moving to a spot under the rock walk, which, to its credit, was a lot nicer. But you can’t fault Aktau for trying to entertain its transit guests.
Tour the Mangystau region
Probably the only reason you’d visit Aktau, apart from passing through it, would be for its Mangystau region. The area has a long history of geological change, with the Tethys Ocean drying up and leaving the landscape shaped by its passing.
Tours are offered online, but prices we were quoted were better in person during our stay at the Three Dolphins. We didn’t have enough time, nor the budget, to travel to Mangystau, but locals at Baccara Bar said it was the best thing you could do in the area.
