Japan is full of memorable experiences. From neon lights and crowded streets to hiking ancient pilgrimage treks and catching noodles from flowing bamboo shoots. There is something to please everyone in this delightful country.
The Shimanami Kaido is yet another example of one of those standout experiences. A 76km cycling route that offers a side of Japan that many travellers don’t have the time to see: peaceful fishing villages, lush green hills and panoramic coastal views.
Despite the route being popular among locals, I struggled to find answers to some basic questions during my research. How difficult is it really? Can complete beginners do it? Is one day enough? How do I get back to Onomichi from Imabari? Will it be easy to rent a bike on the day with no reservation?
Having now completed the cycling route in May 2026, starting from Onomichi, I’ve put together a handy guide that I wish I’d found before my trip. In this article, I’ll share exactly what it’s like to cycle the Shimanami Kaido, hopefully filling in some knowledge gaps for others too.
Quick facts
- Distance: 76 kilometres on the direct path (much further if you explore the islands)
- Start point: Onomichi or Imabari
- Time required: anywhere between 4-9 hours depending on experience, or spread across two days
- Difficulty rating: ★★☆☆☆
- Cost: depends on bike type and transportation options chosen
What is the Shimanami Kaido cycling route?
In short, the Shimanami Kaido is one of Japan’s most famous dedicated cycling routes.
Cyclists can enjoy incredible views across six different islands, with the added excitement of crossing six different bridges en route. The Shimanami Kaido is made for cycling, so expect to follow a blue line the whole way whichever direction you decide to pick.
Each island is home to something unique too, from Setoda’s locally grown lemon delights to Hakata’s salt.
Is the Shimanami Kaido worth it?
Yes, 100%.
After spending six weeks travelling through Japan, some of my favourite memories came from places that rarely feature on first-time itineraries. Whilst giving undisputed energy and iconic sights, the “Golden Route” lacks the laid back culture that the rest of Japan offers. The Shimanami Kaido offers a flavour of this. Here you’ll be swapping shrines for coastal views, beaches and cute cafes.
Is the Shimanami Kaido difficult?
Easier than you would expect.
For most of the 76km, the road is very much flat. When approaching each of the six bridges it will be necessary to climb about 50m-70m in elevation. But this is done over a distance of 1km-2km, making the climb relatively easy and stress-free. We found it quite fun and very satisfying whizzing down hill after coming off a bridge.
When we cycled the route, we started in Onomichi and had planned an overnight stay on Omishima Island to break the journey up. Before cycling I had expected that we would be tired by the time we reached Omishima Island, given that it is about 45km into the route.
Perhaps it was the coffee and ice cream break or the pit-stops for photos, but we were surprised to find ourselves still energised.
Determined to complete it, we agreed to continue biking all the way to Imabari – so the complete 76km – all in one day. Connor and I are by no means expert cyclists, but getting to Imabari from Onomichi in one day is totally possible. We did it in about 6.5 hours, including snack breaks and photo stops. We also were only using the cross bikes (not electric-assisted bikes).
What I would warn you about, though, is that Oshima Island is home to a harder and longer climb. It felt that we were cycling uphill for a long time. Though what goes up must come down. So following that long slug up hill, you will soon be zooming down a long descent.
Who should cycle the Shimanami Kaido?
The route is great for:
- First-time cyclists
- Couples
- Families
- Active travellers
- People wanting a break from the city
Perhaps skip it if you are looking for a really challenging cycle ride with lots of hills to climb.
Booking a bike
Use this public bike website to reserve your bike in advance of your bike ride: https://visitshimanami.com/bike-rental/
If you are unable to book via the above link, there are plenty of bike rental companies in both Onomichi and Imabari. Though single-day bikers beware, you will likely have to return the bike to the store you rented from unless otherwise told. This will mean you have to cycle back to the start or require the skill to dismantle the bike and use a bike bag. You will also have to determine what modes of transport will accept you and your dismantled bike.
If this sounds like a bit too much faff (it did to us), you can also choose to wake up early and get in the queue for on the day public rentals.
On-the-day public bike rentals
This part I was most worried about. How easy would it be to get a bike on the day? What if the terminal runs out? What if the quality of the bikes are rubbish?
I can confidently tell you that you shouldn’t be worried at all.
Quality: First of all the Onomichi public terminal is a well established business (not some crumby outdoor shed that I had envisaged). This means all the public bikes are well maintained and after each use are serviced.
Selection: They have a good selection of bikes available on the day. Choice ranges from cross bikes, city bikes, kids bikes, electric-assisted bikes, e-bikes, and tandem bikes.
Price: The terminal will offer affordability in comparison to other businesses. You can hire a cross bike for 3,000 yen per day.
We were advised to start queueing outside the public terminal shop at 7am, which is one hour before opening time. This would ensure we were front of the queue and had the best chances of selecting the bikes we wanted. It was a Saturday and we turned up at 7am and were the first ones there. But the queue did fill up quite quickly from 7:30am!
Once the terminal opens at 8am, anyone who is in the queue that holds a reservation will be asked to enter first. All those without a reservation will be asked to fill in a quick google form in the meantime. Here you state how many days you would like to rent the bike and where you plan to drop it off. Once finished with reservation holders, those without reservations will be dealt with in order of arrival. Payment for bike rental can be made via cash or card.
What if my public bike drop off plan changes?
That’s okay. Our plan changed too.
Before cycling, we planned to drop the bikes off in Imabari. But as we were cycling we realised the route was far easier than we first anticipated. So we ended up cycling the full route Onomichi to Imabari, then Imabari back to Omishima Island in the first day. Leaving us to cycle from Omishima Island back to Onomichi on the second day. This meant our plan had deviated from what we originally told the terminal during our booking. When we dropped the bikes back off at Onomichi, without warning, they were totally fine with it. If you are worried though, you will have been supplied a contact number of the terminal.
To e-bike or not to e-bike?
Unless you plan to do more than the 76km in a day, then getting a normal bike is totally fine. We ended up doing 106km in the first day, and whilst not enjoyable by the end, it was manageable. Though I have to admit, the second day of cycling from Omishima back to Onomichi was hard with the leg ache!
Opt for a cross bike if you want a normal bike with good gears.
Opt for an e-bike or electric-assisted bike if you want the comfort of a helping hand.
Note that e-bikes (and tandem bikes) cannot be hired for more than one day. It is possible for all other bikes to be rented for multiple days though.
One day or two days?
Most reasonably active people can complete the Shimanami Kaido in one day. Majority of the path is flat, excluding the bridge climbs and Oshima Island. However, I do not regret spacing our trip out over two days (even though we technically did the whole route in one day!)
Doing it in one-day: those opting for one day completion save money both on bike rental and accommodation. Logistics will need to be decided though. Where will you return your rental bike? How can you get from A-to-B (with or without a bike with you).
Doing it in two-days: cyclists have varying choice: (1) cycle only the main 76km route over two days; (2) cycle the main 76km route and any of the additional *”Island Explorer” routes over the two days; (3) cycle to the end and back to the start again over two days including any of the additional “Island Explorer” routes.
*The Shimanami Kaido has the main blue line that leads cyclists from start to end. However, there are also “Island Explorer” blue lines, which take cyclists off the main route to see more of the islands. These are well marked, so you’ll know if you are on an Island Explorer line.
Onomichi to Imabari or Imabari to Onomichi?
It doesn’t matter really. Do whichever option works best with your overall travelling route in Japan.
We started in Onomichi because we were coming from Osaka. It felt right and logistically was sound.
Others may start in Imabari if they are coming from the south upward. For example those coming from Hiroshima could take a ferry from Hiroshima port to Matsuyama, then a short bus ride to Imabari town to start the route.
Some may also choose to arrive in Onomichi/ Imabari, leave luggage in a coin locker, take transport to the end of the route and then cycle back towards the start where they left the luggage.
What about luggage?
The next question then will be: what do I do with my luggage? Well you have options.
If you plan to return to where you started from: two options will be available to you. Either use a coin locker to store your luggage or ask your accommodation to look after your luggage until you return (likely for a small fee).
If you do not plan to return to where you started: you can use luggage forwarding services. They will ship your luggage same day to your next accommodation. There was a luggage forwarding service in the Onomichi public bike terminal.
We chose to return to Onomichi where we started the bike ride and found a cheap coin locker to store our luggage. It was 500 Yen for three days of usage – bargain!
Getting from Imabari to Onomichi
There is a highway bus that connects Imabari to the mainland near Onomichi.
Bus route option 1: take the highway express bus from Imabari bound for Fukuyama. Get off at Fukuyama and then take a local train to Onomichi.
Bus route option 2: take the highway express bus from Imabari bound for Fukuyama. Get off at Innoshima Ohashi (bridge) and then take a separate bus onward to Onomichi. This option we hadn’t seen online, but a lady at the tourist information centre told us about it. Bus timetable below.
You could also use a ferry to island hop. For example I believe Setoda is connected to Onomichi, but I didn’t spend enough time researching this to give confirmed advice.
Things nobody tells you about cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Signposting: The route is extremely well signposted and you always have the comfort of following the blue line. However, if you do want to go off the main cycle route, then the Island Explorer blue line will help guide you.
Lack of crowds: The route is not crowded at all. So you will experience Japan in a way that is totally the opposite to the big cities.
Time for photos: The views are stunning, so make sure your schedule considers lots of breaks for taking photos.
Bridge ascents are ok: Ascending to the bridges looks scarier than what it really is. To get to them you are spending 1km-2km gradually ascending on a 2-3% gradient, rather than trying to cycle up really steep hills.
Lots of convenience stores: Many convenience stores line the route. From Lawson to 7-Eleven. Quick pit stops are easy.
The islands are the main attraction: Be sure to stop off along the way to explore the islands. Setoda Island has a lovely market town and is also home to Sunset Beach. Riders can take a quick dip in the blue sea!
Watch out for Oshima: Oshima is by far the most difficult island. It has long drawn out hills that will be tiresome.
Final thoughts
The Shimanami Kaido exceeded every expectation I had before arriving. It was easier, quieter and more scenic than I had first imagined.
If you’re looking for an active adventure that doesn’t require elite fitness, I genuinely think this is one to add to any Japan itinerary.
Just remember to include pit stops for sweet treats and sight-seeing along the way!
