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The Silk Road, an ancient passage connecting the East to the West, transporting handmade silk, spices, and tea.
Fast forward thousands of years, and the days of horseback and camels have gone. It is now very easy to get around the Silk Road cities via public transport.
By train
The Uzbekistan sleeper train is the most common way to hop between the Silk Road cities. You can purchase tickets to Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, or Khiva on the Uzbekistan rail app. However, we had some difficulty trying to purchase through the app, so, for peace of mind, we went through 12Go to secure the tickets.
When selecting a ticket, you can choose between 1st, 2nd, or 3rd class. We only did 2nd and 3rd class, with rumours that 1st class has showers and bigger beds.
Aside from 2nd class offering more privacy in dorm rooms of four, 3rd class offers the same comforts. As well as being cheaper, it also brings more of an entertainment X-factor to proceedings.
Our experience consisted of a bed thief, a child peeing in a bottle, and locals spilling tea while running down the carriage. Despite the chaos, it quickly becomes the norm; the beds are adequate, and you still have a toilet – you just have more friends to share it with.
By bus
The bus reigns supreme for cost, as well as confusion. We only opted for the bus from Khiva back to Tashkent due to the train being fully booked.
Booking online is a no-go; you’ll have to do it in person. In Khiva, the bus stop wasn’t on Google Maps, but we found it through our hostel, who pointed us outside Anjur SuperMarket, where a makeshift shack acts as the bus station.
Be warned: the buses do not have beds or toilets onboard, but they stop every three hours or so at cafés and truck stops along the way. If you’re on a budget and have time to bus it, go for it. If not, give it a miss.
By shared taxi
Finding shared taxis is easy; knowing when they leave, not so much. Having experienced shared taxis in Georgia, we knew they go by marshrutkas in these lands. You can find them outside bus and train stations, as well as large markets.
It’s an option where you rely on word of mouth among locals, so be prepared to ask around. These are more common in Tashkent than elsewhere, but if found, you’ll save greatly – on cost, that is, not time.
Public transport in Tashkent
Getting around Tashkent is not only easy but recommended. Tashkent’s iconic metro system boasts unique art and sculptures in its many underground stops. Trains are very frequent, clean, and cost almost nothing (around 20 pence).
Tashkent is big, so buses are needed to get around as well. They’re even cheaper than the metro and can also be paid for using contactless cards. Information on where and when to catch the bus you need can be found on the Yandex Go app.
The highlight
Uzbekistan’s new and controversial Octoberfest. In a country where around 80% of citizens are Muslim, we were shocked to find they were hosting the Germanic beer festival.
After speaking to locals, we learned the festival was meant to entertain tourists. However, government officials have been surprised by the number of locals attending, with many calling for it to be cancelled. With the strong turnout and star bookings such as the Russian Madonna, it looks like it’s going to be a tough sell to stop the fun.
Public transport in Samarkand
All major attractions in Samarkand are pretty much within walking distance, with its main jewel being Registan Square. So we set our base there. There is no metro service, so buses are the only way to reach attractions further out.
We only successfully got on the bus once, from the train station to our hotel. However, it was only by taking a chance that one of the buses happened to go to Registan Square.
Buses are almost impossible to navigate and extremely unreliable. Save yourself the time and energy and get a Yandex taxi instead.
The highlight
Samarkand Bukhara Silk Carpets Factory. A shop that offers a free tour and a chance to see the skill and dedication that go into making handmade silk carpets.
It’s not a pushy place; you won’t feel pressured to buy anything. For good reason, as handmade silk doesn’t come cheap. That didn’t stop Gina from making a purchase though.
Public transport in Bukhara
Our favourite place in Uzbekistan, Bukhara is one big old town, so public transport isn’t needed except on arrival and departure.
Getting to and from the train station and the old town is a breeze. A much clearer bus service to Samarkand gives you confidence, and it’s located just outside the train station. We took the 378 bus, which dropped us right by the old town and later took us back to the station when we moved on.
The highlight
Admiring the layout of the old town. Most of the historic landmarks along the Silk Road have been reconstructed by the Russians, which ruins it a little. However, the layout of Bukhara’s old town has remained virtually the same. With market stalls on every corner and over 500 monuments packed into the town, it gives you an idea of the vibrancy of one of the main stops on the Silk Road.
Public transport in Khiva
Similar to Bukhara, Khiva’s tourism lies within its city walls. Being much smaller than the other Silk Road stops, public transport is really not needed. The train and bus stations are only a 20-minute walk from the old town. If you have bags, Yandex taxis are no more than a euro between two people.
The highlight
Khiva’s old town at night. As the sun sets, Khiva’s sand-coloured town provides new backdrops for its many monuments.
With fewer crowds, live music, and a cooler climate, walking around the town at night trumps doing it in the day.
